Loss Free Dog Transport
By: Diane Richardson workingclasscanine@msn.com

	Transporting dogs is something that will always need to be done. This may be simply transporting your own dog to the vet or kennel or it can be as complex as transporting 25 shelter/rescue dogs to a different state. The simple act of getting a dog into or out of the vehicle is the point where many dogs escape their handlers. With your own dog it may not be a problem if the dog has a good solid recall, but for dogs who don't have solid recalls or for shelter/rescue dogs that may never have met you before this event can end in horrible tragedy.

	While I am writing this article primarily as an aid to those who volunteer their time to transport shelter/rescue dogs, ANYONE can benefit from the information I am providing. I have trained dogs since the late 1980's, been involved with dog rescue since the mid 1990's and I also worked in the boarding kennel industry for 17 years with 11 of those years managing a large kennel that not only boarded pets but also boarded rescue dogs of all breeds and from all over the Country. I have seen many many successful and uneventful dog transportations and I have also seen some horrible tragedies ending in lost and/or dead dogs.

	Starting at the beginning, BEFORE exiting the building at the start of it's journey, EVERY dog needs to be fitted with a snug buckle nylon collar that is adjusted so that it cannot slip over the dog's head. I prefer buckle because they are the most secure but a plastic snap on collar works too-just remember those snaps can break. This collar can be paid for by the new adoptor, it can belong to the individual rescue group and used just for the transport and then returned or it can be a collar provided by a donor that will continue with the dog to it's new home. I consider this to be the dog's "grab point" and ID holder, NOT a collar a leash will be attached to for walking. This collar should either have a tag (rabies or microchip or both) OR have the groups name and tel # written clearly on the collar itself. 

	Then there is the walking collar and leash. 
   *Slip leads are popular but you have to be VERY careful using them as they can slip off easily if you have a lax moment or drop the leash. (see my slip lead use photo illustration at www.frontierrots.com/Pictures/slipleadrules.jpg. )
   *Harnesses are also popular but MANY dogs are capable of slipping out of even the best adusted one OR chewing through them in seconds!
   *Martingale Collars with leash are also popular and I STRONGLY recommend their use (properly fitted) for new adoptive families. However, when transporting multiple dogs or transporting assorted dogs often, these can be escaped from easily as they need to be PROPERLY adjusted for each dog so that escape is not possible. (Proper adjustment is so that when pulled tight the rings do not touch (1/2-1" gap), so that if the dog freaks and backs out it can tighten and extra 1/2-1" and prevent loss)
   *Slip (also called choke) collars with leashes. This is my preferred walking collar and leash combo for shelter/rescue transported dogs. I don't train with slip collars and in fact rarely use them on my own dogs BUT they are easily swapped from dog to dog and don't need to be the exact proper size (although carrying a collar/leash that will fit dogs 50-100 lbs and one that will fit dogs smaller and one that will fit dogs larger is wise for those doing transports often) and they are secure when used properly. These come chain or fabric and what you use is up to you, though chain resists chewing. A secure collar/leash combo for walking a shelter/rescue dog takes precedence over training method preference!

	There is also the vehicle containment system. For shelter/rescue dogs I STRONGLY encourage the use of a crate. I am aware that some people do not like them and some dogs do not either, but consider that you do not know this dog. You do not know if it will let you back in your vehicle after a bathroom break, if it will freak out about something and dive under your feet while going 50MPH or any number of other possibilities including escape. I once transported a dog in someone else's vehicle using a car barrier only. About 1/2 way through the trip the dog decided to try to tear down the barrier and attempt to get to me and not for good purposes!

	OK, so now that we have the equipment down, let's move on to the transporting itself. The dog has on it's snug buckle collar and is escorted to the vehicle using a leash/collar from the above list. If the dog won't jump into the crate itself you have to put it there. Use good dog handling techniques and keep your face out of the dog's face. With one hand take a firm grip on the buckle collar and with a stiff arm keep the head pointing forward while lifting the fore-end up, and use your other arm to lift  the back end. Do not hesitate, try to lift and stuff dog into crate with one smooth movement. DO NOT let go of the leash handle, in fact it should be around your wrist. Hold the crate door shut a second while the dog gets in and turns around and then open the door just enough to reach in and get the walking collar/leash off the dog's head. You may need to hold the buckle collar with one hand to keep the dog from rushing out while removing the walking collar/leash with the other hand.  Then shut the crate door and make sure it latches properly. 
	I am working on the assumption that you are not transporting an aggressive or fear biting dog as those have entirely different handling rules and should NEVER be transported by inexperienced people. (Slip leads work best for these dogs and you'll need multiples in your vehicle, as you can loop the dog to get the leash over it's head and simply let go once in the crate and it will loosen and come off it made of proper material.)

	At any bathroom stops make sure you open the crate door just enough to be able to grab the buckle collar with one hand and put the walking collar with leash attached over it's head with the other. DO NOT allow the dog to exit the crate without the walking collar with leash on! ALWAYS walk the dog with the leash loop around your wrist. Get the dog back into the crate as described above.

	IF switching vehicles, YOU put the dog into the next vehicle's crate, remove your walking collar/leash and latch door. IF for some reason you HAVE to swap walking collar/leashes with the next person without the dog being in a crate first, put the next collar and leash on BEFORE removing yours.

	IF you are the "last leg" of a dog's journey make sure the dog is removed from your crate and installed into the last crate or kennel properly. If the receiving person wants to remove the dog from your crate themselves but it looks like they won't be doing it safely, INTERVENE before the crate is opened.

	IF you follow the above transport guidelines, the risk of losing a dog will go way down as close to zero as one can get!

	Good luck and be safe!